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2000 Tracker snorkel install...yep...again...

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So...some of you folks might have seen my last attempt at obtaining a snorkel for my little 2000 Chevy Tracker 2dr.
I found one that I ordered from Europe and it showed up with no directions and a template for Tracker/Grand Vitara that has the small side marker light on the finder...Asian and other countries have the marker light...the USA model does not....that is how you would line up the template.

So with out the marker light, it would take a lot more energy and measuring to get everything lined up.

So one of our prominent members here on the forum bought that one from me.


I was then able to finally get a hold of FTS in Taiwan. The assured me their snorkel kit was complete with a usable template, etc....they did. It tell me it was a HAND DRAWN template.
So I order one.

SUPER FAST shipping...had it in 6 days!

Unboxed it....hmmm...it is made of fiberglass. It feels pretty flimsy and is painted with a paint that when you look at it wrong, chips.
Gonna be interesting to see how it holds up in the wild.
I can say the other one I bought was WAAAAYYYY stronger feeling and was injected molded.

So now the scary part. I line up the template and mark everything. Double check...check again...well...nothing for it but to cut.

I cut the 3" hole. So far, so good.

I then drill the three holes for the mounting studs. This is where things are a bit off.
I had to "egg out" the holes to get the snorkel to fit correctly. Not, much, but worth mentioning.

Got everything tighten up...again...being fiberglass it feels pretty brittle and made a few noises, but turned out okay.

Another note...in the bottom of the air box there is a weep/drain hole. See picture. I plan on making a plug and keep it in the ashtray/glove box and plug that hole if and when I do any water crossing.

Overall it took me around 3 hours to complete from beginning to end. Makes the little Tracker look more "off roady". I took it for a ride on the hwy and no extra wind noise that I can tell. That was something I was worried about.

Take care











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Four wheel drive 101... in lots of snow!

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Quick question... just trying to figure out if the 4 wheel drive system is working correctly in my 93 Tracker (manual trans). We have around 15 inches of snow on our side roads here in Boise and I noticed that when driving in it, the front left and the right rear wheels spin in the snow. Does that sound about right? Should there be other wheels spinning too?

FWIW... I still managed to get the thing stuck in the snow twice, even when in 4 wheel low. The tires are all-terrain types, size 235/60/16. Perhaps the rubber compound is too hard? As a comparison, my wife's Hyundai Elantra with 4 new snow tires went though the same snow without an issue? Should I invest in some good snow tires too?

As always; thanks for the feed back!

Need help finding rear driver side tail light wiring

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Can anyone lead me in the direction of tracking down the wiring for a rear tail light? My top brake light wire going into the bulb housing is shot and i'm having a heck of a time find a replacement. None of the junk yards in my area have any Vitaras. Autozone, Oreillys and NAPA cant get the wiring harness or the tail light assembly (with wiring) either. I've tried two online retailers (Auto Parts Warehouse and SuzukiCarParts.com), and both can do it, but it'll take 4-6 weeks. I need my car asap.

Please help Vitara forums, you're my only hope.

New winch bumper

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Here it is. Made by ZOR in AZ. Great products and service.


Something to check.....

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So when I installed the snorkel on my Tracker I had to remove the fender and liner.

When I did that, I found about 6-8" of "crud" built up in the lower fender to body area.
This was a accumulation of leaves, pine needles, mud, and...well...crud.

I hosed it all out and thankfully there was no rust. Which i was extremely happy about.

I have been worrying about the other, so today I pulled the finder liner and sure enough....crud on the drivers side as well.
not as much as was on the passenger side, but still quite a bit.

So, if your bored, you might pull the liner and check it out. It takes about 10-15 minutes to do.
No need to remove the tire (at least in my case).

Might just save someone some rust issues.


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Instrument cluster swap

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Is it possible to switch the instrument cluster of a 4 door geo metro 1litre without a tachometer to a cluster with a tachometer, without any modification, if that cluster was from a 1litre? Thank you for any information.

2004 4 cylinder engine swap

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Hey all have an 04 with 4 cylinder 5 speed looking to upgrade to a v6.
Just wondering if the existing box will fit a v6?
Is the 2.5 easier to fit then the 2.7?
Which wiring harness and ecu do i need
Thanks benno

Bought my first tracker! Looking to do a budget trail rig

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So I just picked up a 97 tracker, has some rust but mostly solid I'd say. Looks like the rear body mounts will need to be refabbed up. Just plan on doing a 2" body lift and 2" coil spacers, with 31 or 32 inch tires. Just a cheap mild trail rig. Is there anything I should know before going forward? Been doing lots of reading around and it all seems pretty self explanatory so far. Will post pictures in a little bit!

99 Vitara - 99 Grand Vitara parts swap help

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Hi all I have a 99 Vitara 3 door tin top 4x4 2.0l 5 speed manual 2 in lift Vitara snorkel wench bumper 31 in Kendal m/t tires . On the trails and in the woods she's a bad ass.
Last month I broke the front pumpkin I can’t find one for replacement.
So here is my Question
I can buy a 99 grand Vitara 2.5 liter v6, at, 4x4, with a bad engine.($150.00)
I have measured every thing and they look like every thing will bolt right up.
I no the axels are the same teeth and spline.
But from what I can find in the forms an the internet the ratio is different from my Vit
Internet says my gear ratio is 4.30
GV ratio is 4.88
So can I change both front and back rearends to fix my Vit if I do will I have to swap the transfer case to or will mine be ok
From what I can find the transfer cases will interchange with mine if I have to.
I’m not sure if the gear ratio in the transfer case are the same. Or different
Will the 4.88 ratio work better or worse on my Vit for on and offroad?
Can anyone tell me what I need to do to make this work or will it work or any other does an don’t.
What would you do?
Just want to Wheel!
Thanks to this forum and the people here it is awesome.
Thanks Ronnie

Cooling system leak at rear of 2.0 engine... help :(

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I'm new to the forum here so hello everyone... I kind of stumbled on it searching for a solution but can see I'll be back... anyway.

I've read a few threads on here about difficult to find and repair coolant leaks on the 1.6 L and the 2.5 but not much on the 2.0 and I'm now beyond the point of frustration in that I pressure tested and am able to see coolant leaking out but it's WAY at the back of the engine and even with a mirror and some intense light can't see exactly where it's coming from.

I found the schematic and there appears to be not only both heater hoses back there but also a couple more and they seem to converge all at the same spot which is near impossible to see.

I can see I will be replacing all the hoses but I'm also afraid it might be the head gasket... Is there any simple way of disassembling whatever to get a look at what needs to be done ?

From what I can see the 1.6 is a job and 1/2 and the 2.5 not much better this by comparison seems worse - am I going to have to remove the engine to at the rear?

Any help would be appreciated :)

Should I take a pass on this frame rust?

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Looking for replacement vehicle for my 03 GV which I totaled about three weeks ago. Saw this used 06 Kia Sportage that was in great condition all around, and ran great on the test drive, issues being a minor radiator hose leak and an exhaust leak, all could be repairable but was impressed how it ran. However, after an inspection underneath, it was all virtually rust-free except for this hole on the rear frame rail. Is this something that requires reinforcement and weld? Should I take a pass on this unless it gets repaired?

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Idle bouncing. please help!!!

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I have a 2006 Suzuki Grand vitera 2.7 AT 36k miles(yes original Milage)
I am having the same issue as original poster. The idle bounces 1800-2000 rpm randomly. Sometimes it will be absolutely perfect, sometimes it would act up.
I could turn the car off and on 10 times and would act up half the time.

The car had a junkyard Throttle body on it(had part number) So someone changed it once before.
Cleaned the Throttle body on it, No fix
Purchased a used throttle, cleaned it. No fix
Installed New Accelerator pedal sensor. No fix.

I have the following codes

p1603 TCM trouble code detected
p2101 Throttle actuator control motor circuit range/performance
p1703 Can Invalid data from other ecu
c1075 steering angle sensor calibration incomplete.

I am starting to think it is the ecu, but am scared to purchase one and it not resolve anything.

Disappearing coolant

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Good afternoon one and all, I am from Barbados, nice to meet you guys. I have an issue with my 1996 baleno(esteem). Brand new head gasket, head was resurfaced. Coolant rapidly disappaering out of the radiator as I pour it in. No leaks can be seen. Any suggestions??

4wd help

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Im working on a 2002 and we've tested the pump, 6-8 psi output, we pulled the differential apart twice now and cant figure out why the front wheels will not engage. When putting the vehicle in 4wd going in reverse it work for a few then stops and disengages but the light stays on.

Brake reservoir overfilled

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My brake light went on (not the ABS light) in this freezing cold weather. Tried to pull codes, there weren't any. Filled the brake fluid reservoir with a little fluid but turned out overfilling it a little, about 1/8 over the max fill line. It got rid of the brake light but don't know if that was just coincidence by adding fluid. Should I be concerned and drain some of it out? I would suction some of it out but the 04 XL7 brake reservoir has some top (after removing the cap) that you can't insert a suction nozzle into. Or is there a way I can remove that cover or filter, whatever it is? Feels like it moves but can't seem to pop it up and out.

Sift Radio Code

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Dear Forum Please can anyone help me by providing a radio code , my son has bought a Swift but at some point battery has been disconnected so radio code needs inputting again, thought it would be easy to get it but local garages do not seem to be able to help. I have embedded a photo of the label , any help would be wonderful . I am new so please forgive me for any unintended breach of forum etiquette
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Does the rhw diesel engine have a dual mass flywheel

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Just wondering does the rhw diesel engine have a dual mass flywheel as got some noise with the clutch out but goes away when pressed in its a 2004 grand vitara with the rounded dash and not the rhz engine

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Swift AUX input adaptor - not a Clarion

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Hey all
Have just spent the last few hours searching the forum/internet on how to get an AUX input in my 2013 Swift. There is a lot of information out there, most of it referencing Tim Mccabes cable. I have a head unit which does not appear to match up with anyone elses, the model number is PA71LF, not sure of the manufacturer. USB and Bluetooth is not connected and the buttons do nothing.

Can anyone shed some light on this?

Trans not engaging

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1995 Geo Tracker, 2-dr, 1.6L, 16V, 3spd auto, 4WD, 160k miles

Hi guys. My car popped a head gasket about a year ago so I took it off the road until I found a running donor. I want to completely go through the original engine so I got the runner as a spare too. I just finished swapping the engine and there's a slight high idle that I haven't completely fixed yet (idles at approx 1000 rpm warm) but otherwise engine is ok. And the trans was working fine when the head gasket failed.

I double-checked the 3 bolts attaching the flywheel to torque converter. The trans fluid is nicely red and fluid level is good. It holds in park and won't move a bit when I try to push it.

Just now I noticed the trans kick-down cable isn't connected to the throttle bellcrank. But I can't see that being the problem. I had a friend shift through the gears while I looked under the car. Nothing going on with driveshaft and no leaks.

When I put it into gear (reverse or drive or low) the engine revs drop slightly and I can hear a faint whirring sound like pumps are a-pumpin'. I rev the engine and there's no movement. I shift to neutral and the sound slows down and goes away. With the brake fully depressed I shift to park and there's a clicking / grinding from the park pawl. I only did that twice - now I move to neutral before turning off the engine. It's almost like the driveshaft is free wheeling.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

2007 GV V6 clutch is crap

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Hi Everyone,
I have owned a 2007 GV V6 for about 2 years. When I bought it, it had 82000kms on it and it now has 125000kms on it. When I bought it the clutch felt quite spongy and was hard to use. Hillstarts and anything more complicated than starting on flat ground often resulted in either stalling the car or slipping the hell out of it to get it to move. About 10000kms ago I had the clutch replaced with an NPC heavy duty clutch.

The old clutch was worn out and the flywheel was machined. The NPC kit also came with a new slave so this was also replaced. The new clutch was good for probably about 4 months and since then has reverted to the way it felt before the clutch was replaced. It shudders on hill starts and will either stall or stink of burning clutch after a hillstart. I have no problems with hillstarts in any of our other manual cars. The clutch doesnt appear to be slipping in normal driving as the revs dont outrun the speedo when the accelerator is pushed down in high gear.

My partner drives the car mainly and she has commented many times how she loves the car but the clutch is becoming a deal breaker. We both have always driven manual cars but the GV makes it feel like its our first day behind the wheel of a stick.

Last weekend we had a quick burn down the beach to visit some friends. The sand was very soft and quite deep. We were moving at about 20km/h in 2nd with the diff lock set to 4L. It plugged along fine doing about 3500rpm. 3rd gear seemed too high as it dropped to about 2k and felt like it was labouring.

When we got to the end the smell of clutch was there when I stuck my head under the drivers wheel well and I also noticed the shifter was quite notchy in and out of neutral. The pedal also felt very light and went to the floor quite easily.

That prompted me to order a new master cylinder but after doing some reading it appears the V6 GV seems to just have a rubbish clutch? I want to keep this car but the clutch is becoming a deal breaker!

Any help/tips are appreciated.

Thanks.
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